Modern cosmetology are widely using the different types of fats. They are actively engaged in the lounges, in the composition of professional cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, and tonics for domestic applications.
Acid are natural components of skin and are involved in the processes of cellular metabolism and gas exchange. A decrease of the concentration of autologous fatty with age disrupts the normal functioning of cells, and becomes one of the ageing factors of the body. Professional treatments and home care are for their loss and to maintain the necessary concentration right to the skin substances. Most often it is the use of alpha - and beta-hydroacids.
The group of carboxylic acids is a wide range of not very acidic, add the content in the composition of the carboxyl groups. Due to the multiplicity of properties and characteristics of many of them have been successfully used in aesthetic medicine and the production of beauty products.
| Types of acids | Example | Property | Application |
| Fat | |||
| Saturated | Myristic Palmitinovaja Stearic | Emulsifiers, stabilizers | On the basis of these acids created a lot of varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in cosmetic industry as stabilizers of emulsions. |
| Unsaturated | Linoleic Linolenic acid Oleic | Fill the gap of epidermal lidido, reinforce the epidermal barrier. Creating a protective film, hindering the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Are antioxidants. | Are included in the night and day creams, cleansing milk for cleansing the skin. |
| Fruit | |||
| Alpha-hydroacids(AHA -acid) | Glycolic acid Lactic Amber Lipoic acid Vigilantem Malic Lemon Pyruvic, etc. | Eliminate hyperkeratosis, create the conditions to improve the hydration of the skin. Stimulate the production of cerammidi, the collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. | In concentrations up to 10% are used in cosmetics: creams, lotions, tonic , incl. for the care of the house. In high concentrations only apply to conditions for the performance of exfoliations and peeling surface. |
| Beta-hydroacids(VNA-acid) | Salicylic | Exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces the production of sebum, eliminates the impurities from the pores. Anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory. | Used for peeling: just as an exfoliant or as a base for complex peeling medium - Gessner or retinoic acid. Included in creams, lotions, toners for oily skin problems. |
| Polyhydroxylated (PHA) | Gluconic acid | It has a high molecular weight, has a more delicate impact, and not cause irritation. Prevents premature aging, stimulates the production of elastin, increases the protective properties of the skin. Blocks up to 50 percent of UV-radiation. | You turn in anti-aging skin-care program with a greater sensitivity. |
| Trichloroacetic acid(TCA) | Penetrates into deep skin, fruit acids. The principle of action - coagulation of the protein. | For medium TCA peels. | |
Fruit AHA-acid water, and BHA - fat-soluble. This is the fundamental difference determines the application of acids in cosmetology. The most famous one BHA-salicylic acid - penetrates through the lipid barrier in deep into the pores, and then is able to affect the sebaceous glands and decrease their excessive activity. The main event - the treatment of acne and points blacks, skin rejuvenation, oily skin and problems. AHA-acid are more suitable for the care of the skin with photodamage, blotches, age ipercheratosiche and dryness. Polyacids PHA are appointed with sensitive skin in a condition of stress, low immunity local.
The glycolic acid in cosmetics, it is more efficient and therefore more studied with all AHAS. A significant popularity has found that after that was proven to its ability to activate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. A further advantage of glycolic acid - the relatively low cost of production of sugar cane. Dermatology of the Medical university of Wakayama (Japan) have demonstrated the effectiveness of high concentrations of this substance in the treatment of severe forms of acne. The glycolic acid in cosmetics also applied with success to improve the level of hydration of all layers of the skin.
E. I. Hernandez, in her book "Cosmetic peeling" refers to a series of authoritative studies in cosmetology, on the application of glycolic acid, depending on concentration:
At the second place in popularity and geological in cosmetology worth of lactic acid. Also, as a and glycolic acid, this substance has a good exfoliating action and helps to correct the signs of chrono and photo-aging. Degree of effectiveness of the lactic acid a little bit less, but the risk of a possible irritation from his application below.
Lactic acid is considered to be more physiological for the skin. Its molecule an atom of most molecules of glycolic acid, so they are slower and more evenly, penetrate the epidermis and destroy connections intercellular junctions. Created lactic acid on Wednesday, prevents the development of pathogenic bacteria, increases lipid coat and strengthens the immunity of the skin. Data properties together with less aggression justifying the use of lactic acid in cosmetology on patients with problems of sensitive skin. Its concentration in the media for home care varies from 3.5 to 10 percent.
Succinic acid in cosmetics, called the elixir of life for the aging of the skin. She lights up the excess pigmentation, nourishes and aligns the dermis. The succinic acid is a powerful catalyst for synthesis of ATP acid (ATP), plays an important role in the cell exchange. Because of these properties, succinic acid in cosmetology is involved in many anti-aging program, the funds for a care home for the aging of the skin. It is a source of vitality for the hair.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics is not exfoliant peeling. She is recognized as a powerful antioxidant, and overwhelming the activity of a wide range of free radicals - as the substantial causes of aging skin, the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation. High efficiency lipoic acid is due to its ability to dissolve in water, and in the lipid environment, which distinguishes it from many other antioxidants, in particular vitamins c and E. at the same time, she does not block their action and strengthens.
Lipoic acid (vitamin N) hinders the processes of glycation, in which the connection of the collagen fibers with the molecules of glucose and falls activities and elastin production. He repeatedly accelerates the metabolism of glucose and slows down the deformation of the skin of the face. In the case of circulation for the beautician and the regular use of funds with lipoic acid is observed, the reversibility of the process of glycation and the decrease of the signs of age-related changes.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics also is used with success in the treatment of scars, acne, post-acne, and the consequences of rosacea. It normalizes the activity of sebaceous glands, reduces the severity of the pores of the skin, restores the cell membrane and protects the DNA from the aggression of the external environment.
Powerful exfoliate - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This is the most widely used BHA acid, capable of dissolving communication between Horny cells, even in the depth of the pores, that is, to destroy blackheads. In parallel, as the derivative of the aspirin reduces the inflammation, reduces the infectious processes and accelerates healing. The combination of the antibacterial properties and the effect of deep cleansing to determine the application of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with problems of oily skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for home use should not exceed two percent.
In the first place, of an acid in beauty cosmetology applied in the form peeling.
1. Exfoliation and peels superficial AHA acids
Communication hyperkeratosis with many diseases of the skin was again demonstrated in the ' 80s of the last century first scientific research of the AHA. Removing old stratum corneum fatty acids are considered to be more secure with the procedure. Choose the right concentration of alpha-hydroacids do not causes burns of the skin and gently destroys desmosomes - durable intercellular compounds in cell death.
They were later shown the ability of AHAS to penetrate more in depth, of the corneal layer and to stimulate the active processes in the skin. This is due to the dissolution dense clutches occur microcirculatory river bed, which in the deeper layers of the skin easier to penetrate other active substances present on the final phase of the procedure.
The peeling effect and the depth of penetration of the acid depends on its concentration and ph:
Small concentrations of acid are permitted for use in the domestic, medium and high equivalent to drugs, will only be awarded the doctor-cosmetician in accordance with the respective directions and are used for the procedures, professional in a clinic or in a salon.
Positive changes from the skins AHA acids come not once. For a remarkable effect requires 6-10 treatments at intervals of 7-14 days. However, following a course of leather can fully renewed without serious rehabilitation, flaking, and severe post-gluma risks.
2. Peeling BHA
Peeling with salicylic acid are widely used for the treatment of acne, scarring and scars post-acne, align the skin relief. This acid compositions powerful peeling treatments, in some cases, is used as a conduit to retinoic acid. Salicylic acid exfoliant - a real salvation for people with 4 and 5 phototypes of the skin. Acting as a soft exfoliant, does not cause post-gluma of complications in people with dark skin.
3. At the centre the skins essential fatty acids
The mechanism of action hydroacids does not allow them to penetrate into the middle layer of the epidermis, even when concentration increases. Therefore, for a profound renewal of the skin, use other types of fats. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) which coagulates the protein, causing a controlled chemical burn. During the restore process, activate the regeneration and proliferation of cells of the epidermis and dermis. Net of retinoic acid - a derivative of vitamin a - in the process of peeling, interacts with the fibroblasts, increases their activity, and in this way increases the synthesis of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Small concentrations of acids are included in complexes for professional aesthetic treatments, cosmetics and the home. The regular use of these funds is more soft, but durable live.
Fatty acids thanks to the nutritional properties more often become the base for creams thick. Amino acids - make up proteins are important for the production of the active components of the cutaneous extracellular matrix and are suitable for all skin types. Weak form retinoid acid containing creams and serums for skin rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids available at any age and are included in the formulation of creams, toners and serums. Salicylic acid is the most frequently found in cosmetic products for teens, for oily skin and problems.
New exfoliate after 40 - a necessary condition for the the age of nursing. Mandatory the use of drugs with hydroacids - protection from solar radiation, and then many of them contain UV filters.
The means, even with low fat content it is recommended that you apply under the supervision of a doctor. Acquire them the most easy one as a beautician, which is a program of cosmetic correction. Many professional medications can be used both in the salon and at home, so as to control the intake of fats in the skin will be more convenient.